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Guide to picking a quality pocket square

Guide to picking a quality pocket square

What makes a good pocket square? The finest silk, high quality printing, accurate cutting, and of course, nicely finished edges.

Most reputable makers buy from the same few remaining silk printing companies in Macclesfield, England and Como, Italy, so the quality of silk fabric and printing, which can be done by silk screen or inkjet, is going to be fairly similar. Design is clearly subjective, and unique designs are certainly a great indicator that the maker cares - at least a little more.

Assuming that everyone cuts their squares similarly well (we cut our pocket squares individually, by hand, but nevermind!), the quality of finishing, which is the most expensive element since it involves labour, then differentiates a good square. Oddly enough, despite the constant mention of hand rolled edges as the single most important feature that gentlemen should look for in a pocket square, there is surprisingly little discussion on what makes a good rolled edge.

Having started our business by figuring out to hand roll pocket square edges, we pride ourselves on the quality of our rolled edges.

Let’s take a closer look at a machine stitched square (this example is from a famous European store that charges more than twice what we do!).

How do we know it was done by machine? Well, we were offered by a silk supplier in Como the service of machine finishing the silks we purchased in the exact same manner - to which we of course politely declined. Also, no one would stitch a rolled edge in that manner.. it simply does not make sense to use such a complex series of hand stitches, and neither would you want so much exposed thread that is easily hooked by sharp objects.

In practical terms, how does the machine finished edge compare? It is far looser, flatter, has dangerous amounts of loose threads, and lacks that plump and three-dimensional finish that a skillfully hand rolled edge can add to a beautiful square of fabric. Note that we say can, because there are plenty of hand rolled squares in the market that are finished worse than this machine-made product.

Perhaps as important is the other emotional element of luxury - that someone dedicated years honing his/her craft, and spent a good hour of his/her time to skilfully finish your pocket square's edges to a standard that puts the work of a machine to shame.

Perhaps it does not bother you to know that your branded pocket square was finished by machine, but at least you now have a better idea of where your money did - or did not go. They say an educated customer is a better customer, and we couldn't agree more.

To end, we shamelessly leave you with a detailed shot of a hand rolled edge of ours. Very tightly rolled with a series of dense stitches nearly invisible on both sides, that lends our proud pocket square a plump and refined finish.

Our hand rolled pocket squares are available in a variety of fabrics - from the classic white linens to the tasteful range of vintage kimono silks and original designs, we have something for everyone. If you need a guide to pairing pocket squares with your outfit, look here!